Merino wool is a fibre with super powers.... yes, really.
Merino wool is famous for counteracting wool's stereotypical problems. It removes that classic itchy feeling, synonymous with those jumpers given to you at Christmas, yet still offers the warmth and comfort that traditional wool has. To understand why merino wool succeeds where other wools do not, we have to first understand what creates the itchiness in the first place.
Why is wool itchy and why is merino wool is different?
The itch comes down to one thing: fibre diameter.
A Wool fibre thicker than 30 microns typically is stiff enough to press against your skin instead of flexing with it. This gives that familiar prickly sensation
Merino wool fibres normally run between 15 and 24 microns. Our merino wool t-shirts sit at around 18.5 microns, qualifying as “superfine” (18.5 microns and below) wool. At this thickness, the fibres in our t-shirts bend on contact instead of prickling, giving a feel that is closer to silk than traditional wool.
An inside look into the merino wool fibre, you can learn more HERE
Why do people still get caught out?
Because “merino” doesn't tell you everything.
Merino is a breed of sheep. It isn't itself a guarantee of how fine or soft the resulting fibre will be. Merino can sit across a broad range of diameters, as with thicker fibres it will be cheaper, and it will be noticeably less pleasant against the skin. This means two garment labelled simply with “merino” can feel very different against the skin.
Then there are blends. Many garments sold as merino are not 100% wool. Nylon or polyester can be added to reduce cost, yet it changes how the fabric handles moisture and how it smells after a day's wear, and it is the reason some people conclude merino has been oversold.
So what should you look for?
1. Read the composition. If the label will not tell you the fibre content, that is an answer in itself.
2. Look for a grade. Super 100s, Super 120s and so on refer to fineness. A brand that publishes one is telling you something specific. A brand that says only "merino" is telling you nothing.
The other thing people mean by itchy
Not every complaint about wool is actually about the wool. Sometimes that itchy sensation is caused by heat. A warm, clammy fabric will make anyone's skin feel irritated, wool or not, regardless of the fibre it is made from. This is where merino wool starts to distinguish itself from a coarse jumper, and very differently from cotton.
Merino wool is naturally crimped, which allows it to trap air and provide insulation, while still having the ability to move moisture away from the skin. That makes it an unusual yet versatile material, as it can keep you warm in the cold as a thermal layer, but also remains just as comfortable when the temperature rises. You can learn more about the technical wonder fibre in this blog about merino wool.
What does merino actually feel like?
The best way to understand merino is to see it as a type of fabric itself, not just a type of wool.
A good merino t-shirt has a smooth, dry handle, with a little more weight and structure than cotton. It drapes to you rather than clings, yet it still retains enough body to hold its shape throughout the day.
Our merino wool T-shirts are knitted from Super 120s ZQ merino jersey with a small amount of stretch. The result is a fabric that feels soft against the skin but still has enough structure to work as an everyday T-shirt.
They come in thirteen colours, from Ecru and Oatmeal through to Chocolate, Olive and Steel Blue, as well as striped versions. Prices start at £95.
If you're still unsure about merino, the simplest thing to do is come into the shop at 38 Lamb's Conduit Street and feel one for yourself. It takes considerably less time than reading about it.
How do you preserve Merino's qualities?
Once you've selected your colour, looking after merino is relatively simple, the best approach is often less. This in depth blog tells you how to care for merino wool.
Wash it cool, using a wool cycle and a detergent without enzymes or bleach, then dry it flat. Avoid the tumble dryer. Heat and agitation can cause wool to felt, making the fibres contract and the fabric become denser and stiffer.
It also doesn't need washing after every wear. Merino naturally resists odour and benefits from simply being aired between wears.
Look after it properly and the softness remains. Which, for a fabric that has spent decades being associated with itchy Christmas jumpers, is a useful place to start...
Frequently asked questions
Is merino wool itchy?
Fine merino is not. Prickle happens when fibres are thick enough to resist bending against the skin, at roughly 30 microns and above. Merino typically runs 15 to 24 microns, and Super 120s sits at around 18.5, comfortably below the threshold.
Why does merino wool itch some people and not others?
Usually because they are wearing different grades. Merino describes a breed, not a fineness, so one merino garment can sit near the prickle threshold while another sits far below it. Blends with synthetic fibre also change how the fabric feels.
Can you wear merino wool against bare skin?
Yes, and that is what it is designed for. A fine merino t-shirt is meant to be worn with nothing underneath it.
Is merino wool good for sensitive skin?
Many people with sensitive skin find fine merino easier to wear than cotton, because it moves moisture away rather than holding it against the skin. If you have had a genuine allergic reaction to wool, usually to lanolin, speak to a doctor first.
Does merino wool get softer over time?
It softens a little with wear and settles. It will not soften dramatically, because it starts soft. What it can do is get harsher, if you tumble dry it and cause the fibres to felt.
Is merino wool too warm for summer?
No. The fibre regulates rather than simply insulating, moving moisture away from the skin as vapour. Fine merino is one of the better things to wear in heat, which is why long-distance walkers use it year round.
What does Super 120s mean on a merino label?
It is a worsted fineness grade. Higher numbers mean finer fibre and a smoother, lighter cloth. Super 120s corresponds to a fibre of roughly 18.5 microns, which is why it can be worn straight against the skin.